Indigo: Is the color used to dye denim, it is taken traditionally from the Idigofera tinctoria plant. Since 1911 a synthesized version has also been available.
Dying Process: The cotton is dyed via a “living” fermentation Process, Which reduces the Indigo from Blue to Yellow.
Once in this state the cotton is Worked or dipped into the vat of liquid. When exposed to air it is a bright Green color which over time develops into a rich indigo Blue.
Selvage (or Selvedge): Is the white woven edge on both edges of the fabric width which prevents unraveling. This traditionally would mean that a old 29 inch shuttle loom was used. These days this can also be replicated by modern looms but the quality is not close to the original style.
Listing: Is the colored thread running through the Selvage band that was used to identify the denim to each company.
Left Hand Twill: Notably the twill line starting at the top left of the fabric falling to the bottom Right. Also has a softer hand feel than right hand after wash.
Right Hand Twill: Traditionally used denim woven with a diagonal twill line which rises from left to right. (Starting at the top Right of the fabric and falls to the bottom Left of the fabric.
Leg Twist: Is the natural adjustment of the fabric which will follow the direction of weaving due to the shrinkage. Associated with Vintage denims
Skewing: Introduced in the 1970’s Skewing is the process invented to prevent the “LEG TWIST.”
Sanforization: Introduced in early 1900 it is the process which shrinks and stretches the fabric in length and width, Which stabilizes the fabric before it is then cut.
Singeing: Is the process of burning away the hairy surface of denim.
Anti-Fit: is a way of cutting the rise of the jean in a straight line (as opposed to curved)which gives the Anti-Fit jean its recognizable ‘top block’ (the section of the jean that goes from the waist to the crotch). It came about as a result of trying to reshape the Overall and cutting them down to a pair of jeans. Overalls are not cut to follow the body but rather to ‘hang’ on it, and so the Anti-Fit cut that doesn’t follow your body shape. Benefits of anti-fit are Greater comfort, and less wear on the seat.
Type of Washes
Hidetora Wash
Unwashed 3D
Unwashed garment with 3D wear lines
Taro Wash
(Dark used)
Dark worn blues with slight natural abrasion wear.
Jiro Wash
(old HAGI wash)
Mid Used wash down with abrasion on back pockets and knee and lower thigh.
Whiskering in crotch and honeycomb in knee pit
Saburo Wash
Light used
Light worn blues with Holes and repaired details on thigh and front pockets.
And natural abrasions wear.
Ran 3D Wash
Unwashed 3D
Unwashed garment with 3D wear lines
Kyoami Wash
Dark used
Strong Over dyed dark Denim with subtle abrasion.
Mondo Wash
Mid used.
Over dyed mid blue denim with abrasion and whiskering.
